In burst mode, an ADSL or frameless camera takes repeated photographs for as long as you hold the shutter button down unless the buffer gets full. The buffer is an area of storage where images are held temporarily before being downloaded to the camera’s memory card. If the images are transferred out of the buffer slower than they are being fed to it the buffer will eventually get full and the taking of further images will be delayed until it is empty or a fraction empty.
Some high-quality cameras never reach a full buffer but most will appear to run and then stop and pause before running again. The burst speed is measured in frames or exposures per second (FPS) which is mainly between 5 and 10 FPS depending on the camera. Some cameras achieve up to 60 FPS. Mirrorless cameras are generally capable of higher frame rates than DSLRs.
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For comparison standard movies and videos run at 24 FPS, 30 FPS can be used for increased quality, 60 FPS for 4K video, and 120 FPS for slow motion filming.
Some cameras have several burst speeds, which vary depending on the size and quality of the photo, the autofocus mode and the shutter mode.
When to Use Burst Mode
You can use it at any time with the only negative being that you end up with masses of photos needing to be sorted, processed and stored. Some purists claim it’s too easy, makes you lazy, and stunts your growth as a photographer. Use it when:
Analyzing an Action
You are photographing an action say a monkey jumping between trees and you want to document the actions of the jump
image by Charles J. Sharp in Wikimedia Commons
The burst speed to be used would be estimated by dividing the time of the action by the number of images required. Say this jump took 1.2 seconds, it would need 1.2/3 = 4 FPS with the burst triggered just as the monkey jumped.
Assuring a Good Photo
Wherever there is a chance that something might not be right in the photo, take a burst of say 10 shots giving a selection of photos one of which will be better than the others and hopefully produces a great shot.
For example, a burst will hopefully catch everyone in a group with their eyes open, might be able to avoid showing an unflattering grimace and could get a shot with the flower that is moving in the wind in focus.
Catching Photogenic Positions
Image by Mohammad Sadegh Heydari in Wikimedia Commons
In photographing rapid animal movements if it is not possible to catch the movement at that exact position where the animal is most graceful, threatening, balanced, or attractive. Taking a burst gives a number of similar photographs from which to choose the one that best suits your needs.
Should a suitable photograph not be captured a longer and/or faster burst possibly from a new position in the action might be necessary.
Bypass Camera Shake
Taking a burst while handholding the camera at too slow a shutter speed will give a series of photos with different degrees of blurring and hopefully with at least one sharp photo. In fact, Nikon’s Best Shot Selector takes a burst and retains only the sharpest photograph saving storage space.
Avoid Missing Moments
Burst mode can save you from missing that one unrepeatable moment. By keeping your camera on burst mode you can be ready to raise your camera when you sense something is happening and immediately start recording the event even as you frame and organize a shot.
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What Do You Need
Most DSLRs and mirrorless cameras have a burst mode with the mirrorless offering the highest burst speed.
For wildlife photography an absolute minimum of 15 FPS is needed but this will leave certain actions undiscovered.
image by Channel City Camera Club in Wikimedia Commons
For instance, hummingbirds whose wings flutter at around 80 times a second pose challenges. To be able to have flexibility best to look for a rate of at least 30 FPS, but the faster the better is definitely the rule here.